Checkered Bucket Hat

Hi guys, welcome to our live event. My name is Brenda Cabe Anderson. I'm a crochet instructor and designer, and today I'm gonna share with you this really cute bucket hat. Check it out. So it's checkered obviously, um, which has just been so popular lately and I just I just couldn't resist.

I knew I had to do a checkered bucket hat for this summer. Um, this week, all of a sudden it's just gotten super nice out here, so this project just seems even extra appropriate to me just from, you know, for where I'm living, but I just kind of really feel the spirit of this cute checkered bucket hat today. Um, so if you're looking at it and thinking, oh, that looks really hard. I've never done color work before, this is one of the most simple color work projects that you can work on if you're um trying to learn how to do tapestry crochet. So, um, that is how the colors are changed throughout, and I'm gonna be showing you, um, you know how to work it up so you'll be able to do it by the end, um.

So this hat, uh, you start at the top, we're gonna work our way down. There's some increasing that happens to make the, the brim flare out. And then at the bottom, the bottom edge here, we do this kind of interesting. Edging that's nice and thick and so when you wear it it helps your brim kind of stand out, you know, shield you from the sun. It isn't like gonna be super ruffly and and droopy at that point because it's um got that extra thickness that goes around with that um contrasting detail so.

All right, um. So this is a live event, of course. hello, welcome, glad you guys are here. So if you guys have questions, if you have any comments, um, definitely put them in the chat. I will answer your questions as best as I can during this live event today, um, if you guys have.

Questions or things that you'd like to learn in the future, you can also put that in the chat too, or if you just want to say hi, tell me where you're crocheting from. I always love that when you guys say hello. So, all right, so we're gonna start by just talking about the materials that you're gonna need. So for. For any of these hats you're gonna be needing 3 colors if you want to do, you know, the color changes, how I've done them.

Obviously you're gonna need those two colors to make that checkered look, um, but if you're really trying to save on yarn and you're like, uh, I can't, I, I'm not, I don't want to buy 3 colors, um, then you can if you don't have scrap yarn for that bottom sort of trim that goes around, uh, that's OK. You can use one of the other two colors to do that edging, you know, and have a slightly different look. To it, but it'll still be super cute. So this is something to think about because I can save you a bunch of money because this is really that contrasting color is only being used on that very bottom part. So I found that I was able to get uh the largest size and then the medium size uh out of the same amount of yarn that I ended up buying for one hat because, uh, the largest size you need a little bit over half of each skein so or you know, a ball of yarn like this or cake of yarn.

You need a little bit over half and then the second in the middle size you need a little bit less than half so it worked out so that you know if you want to make matching hats with someone who has a slightly smaller or slightly larger head than you, then, um, you know, you might be able to do that with those 3 cakes of yarn or 3 balls of yarn. So something to think about. I do have that information in the pattern download as well in case you're like, whoa, what did you say that was too fast. Um, it's definitely in the download. I wrote that in there because I thought that was kind of important information.

Um, and speaking of the download, it's free for everybody. Uh, you will probably need this download in order to complete this project because I'm not going through every single stitch count for every single size. I'm going to be teaching you how to do the increases. To be switching colors. I'm gonna be working through the top of the hat and then once we've kind of established how it works, you know, I'm not gonna work through every single round and, and, you know, tell you about stitch counts and all that stuff all the way through so you're gonna need your pattern for that.

If you do not, and I think you know between the pattern and watching the video, you should be fine, but if you have never read a pattern before and you need a little bit of extra help, there is a link in the pattern to go to a different video where I teach you how to read crochet patterns. So if that's something of interest to you, there's a link in there uh for you to help you out. But of course you can ask me questions during the live event if there's anything that's not clear or you know, you need a little extra help, so don't be shy. OK, so back to the materials, you're going to need 3 colors of yarn, so we have the main color, the contrast color. So the main color, let me pull this over here.

The main color is what I'm calling the orange in this hat, and really there's not much difference between the main color and the contrasting color. It's just that the main color starts first. So here we have that orange kind of dot in the middle. That's the whatever you start with, that's going to be your main color in this pattern. So you've got the main color.

I have pink for my contrasting color, and then I have something that I'm calling the edging color or EC abbreviated in the pattern, and that's just this little detail of color around the the edge of the hat. Um, let's see, and as far as amounts, they're all written in your, in your pattern. Let's see. But you'll need anywhere from 85 to 105 yards of each of the main color and the contrasting color and only about like 15 yards of the, the edging color, so. Uh, and as well as the yarn, of course you're going to need a crochet hook.

I am using a G hook, which is a 4 millimeter hook, uh, but you will use whatever size you need to in order to get gauge. And in this project, like many of my projects, I worked the gauge, checking the gauge into working the project itself. So you're going to start by working at the top of the hat and then once you get a circle. That's, you know, uh, after working around 6, you'll measure the diameter of that circle and then you can compare it to my gauge. If your piece is bigger than what I have listed, which is 4.25 inches or 11 centimeters, if your piece is bigger, then try going down a hook size or two.

If your piece is smaller, then you're gonna go up hook sizes, um, one or more to get the, the size the size to match mine because otherwise your hat will be a surprise size and nobody wants that. Um, OK, so let's get started on our hat. We're going to be using the green as our main color and the light pink as our contrasting color for this sample. I'm gonna be switching throughout samples and um through different uh color combinations so you guys can, you know, check them, check out some different ones just to get different ideas about what you like. Uh, so to begin, we're going to make an adjustable loop, so you just kind of draw that little shape like this, flip that over onto the strand connected to the ball, put your hook underneath that strand, and we're going to pull that not all the way tight, but so, you know, it's just a little bit open.

Then we're going to chain one. And I like to rotate this loop like that because then I can work over two strands at once and it makes it a little stronger. If you have a different way to make your adjustable loop, absolutely you can do that. I just like teaching it this way because I feel like it's pretty straightforward and easy to remember once you do it a couple of times. OK, so to start, we're going to be um working up a round of extended single crochet stitches into this loop and uh extended single crochet, if you guys have never heard of it or worked it up, this is like a miracle crochet stitch, and I have been just in love with the stitch for like the last 10 years.

A lot of my designs. I keep going back to that stitch so many times because first of all, it makes amazing color work. You if you um if you've ever worked something in the round, you might notice your stitches start to kind of twist off to the side and a lot of times like if you Google checkered bucket hats, a lot of times you'll see that instead of straight lines here where the colors change, they'll all kind of be like slightly offset to the side. The reason it's not happening in my hat is because I'm using the extended single crochet stitch and that keeps everything really straight and vertical, which is very unusual for crochet worked in the round, so. Um, it's, yeah, it's a great stitch.

OK, so we're going to place, um, either 78 or 9 extended single crochets into the loop depending on what size you're making. I'm going to be making the smallest size, so we're going to insert. You move that out of the way. Insert yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through one loop, then we're going to yarn over and pull through two loops, and that completes the first extended single crochet. I'm going to place a stitch marker in the top of my first stitch so I can just kind of keep track of that when I come back around because sometimes it's a little hard to tell where your first stitch is.

Um, but later on, you know, using a stitch marker, it might help you, especially if you're newer to crochet, but we're gonna be working in joined rounds. So if you have ever done that before, you know that when you start your next round there's already a kind of a bump there. So I generally don't use the stitch marker in this project. I just kind of throwing it. In to that very first stitch just to make it extra clear where that is.

OK, so I've got the first extended single crochet in there, and I'm going to do 6 more. So I'm going to insert yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through 1, yarn over, pull through 2. There's the second one. Insert yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through 1, yarn over, pull through 2. OK, so we've got 3.

I'm gonna do that 4 more times. Insert yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through 1, yarn over, pull through 2. And then 1 more, 2 and 3. And let's check and make sure we have 7 here. 123456, and there's my mark stitch number 7.

So then at this point, you can pull on your beginning yarn tail and tighten up that loop. And we are gonna do a slip stitch join in the very first stitch we made, which is right there. So we're just gonna insert our hook, grab that yarn, pull through, and pull through the loop on our hook. All right. So now, starting with round 2, we're gonna be switching back and forth between two different colors.

Let's see, I'm gonna grab this lighter pink here. Oh, we've got some good mornings. Good morning to you, Kathleen and oh, Natalie, hello type of yarn cotton, yes, I'm sorry, thank you for reminding me. I forgot to mention that. Um, all of the specifics are in your download so if you want to know the colors, the brand, and all that stuff that's in the download, but I'm using a worst weight cotton.

So this is a dishcloth cotton, but this particular cotton brand is a little bit softer and just a little bit thinner than most of the like big box. Uh, number 4 medium weight cottons that you find, you know, find in the big box stores, um, so I just wanted to give you that little bit of a heads up so you might want to check out this yarn just to, to make sure if you are using a slightly heavier weight cotton, it, it'll still turn out OK feeling wise and it'll be nice and stiff, um, like you want your brim to be, but your hat might be a little bit bigger so you may have to go down a hook size. Might be a little bit harder on your hands. Cotton is already something that is hard on some people's hands because there's basically no elasticity in a lot of cottons. This one has a teensy bit of elasticity, but not really very much, um, but I like that for this type of hat.

Not only is it cool for in the summer to be having cotton yarn, but also, um, it, it'll keep its, you know, kind of stiff shape when you crochet it up at a fairly tight gauge, which is, which is what we're doing here. Um, thank you for asking that, Natalie. I don't know how, but I just kind of spaced out that information, um, but as always, your all of the detailed information is in your download, so, um, I always write down like the brand, the color and all that kind of stuff so you can always check into that. And we have a hello from Diana. Hi Diana, thanks for saying hi.

OK, so, um, now we're going to be grabbing that second yarn, the second color. First, we're just going to do it one chain with that main color. So we've done our chain one, then we're going to take that second color. I'm going to bring it up. So here's the beginning tail.

I'm going to bring this up right behind the top edge of where I'm going to be working, OK? So let me get this. Out of the waist so you can see. So it's going to be sitting right here, right along that very top edge, and I'm going to crochet around it encasing this with my next stitch. So in the same space where I did my join, I'm going to make an extended single crochet right there.

So insert yarn over, pull up a loop yarn over pull through one, and then we're going to stop for a second because at this point we're going to switch colors before we complete that first stitch. So we're going to drop. The main color. I'm going to drop that to the back and I'm going to pick up the lighter color, which is the pink, that's the contrast color, and I'm going to yarn over and pull through to to finish off that first extended single crochet and also to change to the next color. Now, I'm going to work into the very same stitch that I just worked into, but this time I'm going to make a pink extended single crochet.

So I'm going to insert. And I'm crocheting over the green, so you can see I'm holding that right along this top edge. So that's going to get trapped when I do that yarn over. Yarn over, pull through one, and then to switch to the other color, which is what we're going to do next. We're going to drop the pink.

I'm going to bring that to the front, and we're going to pick up the green, yarn over, and pull through to to complete that second extended single crochet and to change color to green. Now we're going to repeat this around. So the first stitch, so each stitch around is going to get two stitches in it. The first one's going to be the main color. And then the second stitch is going to be the contrasting colors.

So that's going to happen in every remaining stitch around. And we're always going to be working over this yarn. So, we're going to insert here in the next stitch. Yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through one, and then we are going to drop the main color to the back, pick up the contrasting color, and complete our extended single crochet. And now we're going to do a pink stitch in that same stitch.

So right there, insert, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through one. Dropped to the front. Pick up the other color and pull through too. So just in case you're wondering why I'm dropping to the front, dropping to the back, that helps you to not tangle up your yarn. Um, it's not the kind of thing, you know, when you're first learning this, it's very even when you're not first learning this, let's just be honest, it's easy to not pay attention to that and then you kind of have this big twisted thing happening.

That's probably gonna happen and that is completely OK. Once you get a twisty annoying thing with every time you switch back and forth between your yarns at that point you can untwist and I'll probably show you that in a little bit once it starts getting twisted up. I'm pretty sure it's gonna happen because I'm concentrating on what I'm doing and and teaching you. So usually when I do that I end up not paying too much attention to where I'm setting that yarn down, so it's probably gonna get twisted in a little bit. OK, so we're gonna continue making these two extended single crochets into each stitch and switching color.

So here's the green one. We're gonna finish that up with the pink. And here's the pink one. And we're gonna finish that up with the green. Here is a green one.

Finish it up with the pink, and what I mean by finish it up, I just mean that last yarn over of the stitch. That's where we stop. And pull through with the next color to get it ready for the next stitch. Because when you're doing that last yarn over, you're not actually making a part of the stitch you're currently working on, you're actually making the top of the following stitch. That's why we changed color on that last yarn over of the previous stitch.

So I know this looks a little, I don't know, a little bit tricky at the beginning, but the first couple rounds are the hardest and it does get easier. It gets so much easier both with practice but also because you, you can see as you move through the project what color you're supposed to be using after this. Um, I'll explain that a little bit more as we get a little further in. So at this point, when you've worked all the way around, you should have a total of 1416, or 18 stitches just depending on what size you're working. So you'll have 78 or 9.

Of each color, so 7 of the main color and 7 of the light color or of the contrasting color, um, you know, or 8 of the main color, 8 of the contrasting colors. So you can easily count up your stitches just by looking for those different colors. So I'm going to count the pink ones, so 123456, here's the 7th 1, and I know the second stitch I made in each stitch was the lighter color. So when I get around to the end, I'm going to. Yarn over and oops, I still have to finish that stitch.

So I'm going to yarn over, pull through to with that green color to change color to the next color. So that way, when I make that slip stitch into the very first stitch of the round right here. There we go. You want to catch that. Ma just making a slip stitch into the very first, sorry, into the very first extended single crochet of the round.

I'm making my slip stitch there and making it in the green and it's gonna blend right in. OK, so the next round. We're going to do, what let's see, round number So we're gonna start with the main color, which is what we already have, and we're gonna chain one. And then we're going to work into that very same stitch that we joined, um, the first green stitch that we have here, and we're going to do 2 extended single crochets into the green stitch. And on the second one, we're going to change to the lighter color.

Then we're going to do 2 single crochets in the lighter color. On the second of those stitches, we're changing to green. So basically what we're doing is we're putting 2 stitches into each stitch around and we're matching the color. So, here's the first extended single crochet. And here's the 2nd 1, and remember, we got to change color on the on the last yarn over.

So there we go. And now we're going to do 2 extended single crochets into. The matching color And we got a change to. The main color, so we can do 2 here. So, you can just read your stitches by looking at what color comes next.

Just make sure that you are changing your color every 2 stitches. And that that should be fine. And you'll start to see those little checkers just barely forming. It kind of to me the, the center of the hat, the very top of the hat actually looks like a sun. Um, which, which, uh, makes this hat even cuter in my opinion.

I love that it looks like that. That was a happy accident. I was not planning to make a sun on the top, but I was happy when it did. So, as you're working your way around, you'll see me do this after, when I when I change to the next color, I kind of pull on it just a little bit before I do my yarn over. And just make sure it's not, um, too loose and not too tight.

So what I mean by that is, so when you're, when you're crocheting around and you're working over a strand of yarn, this will become a little bit more obvious later when we have a longer, um, A longer area to carry our yarn when the checkers get wider, but you, you want to make sure that that yarn that's being carried through there is not like sticking out of the back or looping out or doing something weird so I gently pull on it just a little bit and um and then you want to just make sure that you didn't pull it too tight. Don't want it to restrict your work. That's just something that it gets easier as you get a little bit more comfortable with the switching the colors and it'll become um automatic to you after you know when you're partway through this hat you'll just start doing it I think if you're paying attention to what that strand is looking like back there. All right, I have one more stitch to work into. Here we are.

And then, instead of changing to green, we're gonna leave it with the pink, and the reason why is because our next round is gonna start with pink right here. So we're going to do, there's the top of my first extended single crochet. We're going to do our slip stitch into that, the top of that stitch like this, and then we're going to chain one to start. So every time we start working a new round, we slip stitch and then we chain 1, and then we work an extended single crochet into the same space as we slip stitched. So on round number, let's see, 123, we're working round number 4.

We're continuing with the contrast and color, that's the pink. And we're going to do extended single crochets into each of the next 2 stitches, then we're going to switch to the other color and work two stitches. This round doesn't have any increasing in it, so we're just going to place an extended single crochet right there into the green one, and then an extended single crochet into the next green one, and then we're going to switch colors. So now we're working the green into the pink. So this whole round, we're working.

The opposite color of what's there. So you get to the green section, and you're gonna be making pink into the green section. And green into the pink section. So throughout this hat, oh, see, I have a little bit of a tangle here. I mean that's not super tangly, but it's starting to twist because I'm not paying attention, which is completely fine.

I just wanted to take this minute. I mean, I, I could keep going for a while just by separating it with my finger like this, but um, if you look at it, you can tell which way you need to place the yarn to untwist it. So if I take my pink yarn and I put it this way and then take my green and put it this way, it's untwisting it over here. So what that means is I'm going to be dropping my yarn to the back every time I switch colors for a little while, and that should untwist it. And you know, you don't need to worry so much about this.

If it gets twisted, you can just kind of untangle it. You can take the balls of yarn and wind them the opposite way around each other. If it gets into a knot or something like that, just cut one strand, pull it through, and then add it back in. So it's really, um, it's one of those things that definitely improves over time when you just get used to handling handling the yarn, but I wanted to just kind of give you some tips because I know that some people when they're first starting, they get pretty frustrated with uh getting their yarn tangled. So I'm gonna be dropping my yarn to the back.

No matter what color it is. And that'll untangle it. And when I say, I, I hope that's not too confusing. When I say I'm dropping my yarn to the back, I just mean of the other compared to where the other strand is. I am I'm always dropping yarn.

I'm always gonna be holding yarn kind of like up on top and crocheting over the one that's up on top, um. It's not like I want one to be hanging down here as I crochet along, if that makes sense. All right, I have just a few more to do to complete this round. Alright, 2 more stitches. And then I am going to.

Um, to complete that stitch with the pink, just like I have been to change color to the pink so I can do my slip stitch here and continue with the pink. Just like that. So on my next round, I am going to chain one. Working over that yarn, we're always working over the unused yarn, and I'm going to place one extended single crochet into the first stitch. And then 2 extended single crochets into the 2nd stitch.

And when I do the second of those, that's when I'm going to switch to the green, because I'm on this round, we're matching color. So meaning if you see a green stitch when you work into it, you're gonna be working with green. So here's my 2nd stitch. So one pink here. And 2 pinks here.

And we got to change to the green at the very end. So one green here. And 2 greens in the next stitch. And we'll pick up the pink and yarn over that to finish it. So this whole round we are doing an increase in each section of color.

And anytime we're gonna be doing an increase in this hat pattern like once we've gotten this far in it any round that you're doing an increase, you're going to do an increase in every single section because that's what keeps the checker pattern looking uniform um so you'll know if you're doing any increases you're doing an increase into each single section of color and we're always going to do that increase in the very last stitch of that color before changing to the next color. So I feel like it just kind of helps to know that so you can anticipate it throughout the pattern. I mean it is all written out they will tell you the pattern will tell you where to do your increases, but I'm one of those people who I don't really like to sift through all of the words sometimes when I'm reading a pattern, and I like to just kind of understand a little bit more about how the pattern works and how the stitches relate to each other and if there's, you know, repetition throughout, it really does help me a lot. So regardless of what size you are working up, everything is pretty much the same. Except that you'll have a different amount of color repeats around.

So I've got 7 sections of. Let's see. 12345677 sections of each of the colors, um, because I'm doing the smallest size, but if you were doing the medium size, then you'd have 8. If you're doing the largest size, you would have 9. But the amount of stitches and where you're doing the increases and all that per color, that's the same throughout for no, you know, no matter what size you're working on.

Oh, and I should have mentioned too that, I mean, there are 3 sizes in this pattern. I did mention that earlier. I do, I did wanna. I know we're going backwards just for a second here, but I just, I forgot to mention this and I want this to be clear. Um, it's always best to pick out your size based on your measurements and comparing that and I always try to have a little note like you're just gonna choose the hat size that's closest to whatever your head measurement weighs or uh measures, um.

But the sizing right here, I just wanted to make sure that this was clear enough for people reading it because I know there's a lot of like these slashes and it's confusing looking, so the sizes are kind of meant for a small child and then a child medium or an adult small medium and then the largest size and as an adult. Medium large. Now if you're gonna make it for a child, don't just assume that you know you would make it the child smaller the child medium depending on how old they are just definitely measure their heads because head sizes vary a lot and like my kids have been wearing adult hats for, you know, they started wearing adult hats since they were like probably in 2nd grade or something like that so um. You know, that doesn't necessarily mean anything, just that label. So I always try to, um, put the finished measurements just so you can compare them to your own and make sure you get a nice fit.

OK. All right, let me open this up so we can see where we're at. So right now we have worked through 12345, round number so we are going to do our last yarn over in the same color because we're switching our checker pattern. It's going to shift on the next, uh, round here. So what I mean by that is we're going to do our slip stitch in green on the pink.

And then we're going to continue with that color. So your slip stitch, when you do your slip stitch, that's always going to be in the color that starts out the next round, if that makes sense. So the slip stitch at the end of your round, you need to think ahead and be like, what's the color I'm going to need at the beginning of the next round? That's what color your slip stitch should be. It does tell you in the pattern as well, but sometimes it's just easier to know, know how it works.

OK. All right, so we're going to. Do an extended single crochet into the next 3 stitches, 1. To 3 And we're going to switch to the other color. So this time we're doing opposite colors, OK?

So if you see green, you're going to work pink into it. And we're not increasing on this round. So one way to tell without reading through all the instructions or you know, if you just want to know at a glance, am I increasing in this round or not? If you look at your pattern at the end, if it has numbers at the end and they're italicized, you know, 42, 48, 54, that is telling you how many stitches you have at the end of the round. So if that's there, that mean that means that there's been a change, um, in this pattern it'll be increases that were made.

That means there's been a change within that round. If you look at the end say for around 6, there's no um italicized numbers here, so that means you have this, you're not increasing, so you, you, we don't have to update the stitch count. It's gonna be the same as the last listed numbers if that makes sense. That's a convention that a lot of people use, but some people list the stitch counts every single line. Um, and I used to think that that was more helpful so you could double check, but.

Now I kind of like listing them only when there's been a change. That's how I was originally trained to write patterns, um, and I kind of went back to that because I feel like then at a quick scan you can see if you, if there were increases or decreases that happen and you need to pay extra attention if those there's those numbers listed at the end. All right, so basically, you know almost everything you need to know to make this hat. You know how to switch between colors, you know where the increases are and the increases, that just means you're putting two extended single crochets into a stitch like that. We're not actually increasing here though, so I'm not gonna do that.

I gotta switch to green, um. So you know how to continue increasing and your pattern will tell you, you know, where to change color. You know what, what, um, what color slips such to do and what, um, kind of color pattern you're doing around your pattern will tell you that. It will also tell you where to put your increases and all that sort of thing. But, um, so now that we know all that, you can just continue working on your hat and as you get further out in your hat, you're going to start doing more rows.

So, um, there will be 3 rows before changing to the next color. So if we take a look at this, the top of this hat. We've got just 2 rows in that color and then we switched, you know, the checkered switch so we went from orange to pink here. Then the next set is going to be 3 rows right here, so 12, and 3, OK? And that's going to remain constant throughout to the end of the hat.

So once you switch to those 3 rounds, you'll know every time you're going to be. Working 3 rounds before you switch, you know, alternate to the opposite placement of the colors if that makes sense. So there's gonna be a section you're gonna keep increasing every once in a while your pattern will tell you where and then there's gonna be a section where you're just working in the checker pattern even you're just you're not doing any increases for a while throughout this section of the hat. If you're working a smaller size, it is only for one little section that you're not doing any increasing. And then after that, then you're gonna go back to increasing because that's what's going to shape the brim here see how it kind of, it goes straight here and then it flares out when you've got that little edge there.

So there are increases in the middle so there's if there's 3 rounds here in orange, it's always gonna be in that middle one that's having that increase once you get further along in the hat. That middle middle one gets the increase um if that makes sense and it's like I said before, you're gonna increase in every section of color and you're always going to be making your increase right before you change to the next color so you can see there's an increase right here. There's 2 extended single crochets right here and we move further along in that row. There's 2 extended single crochets right here. To right here.

Um, so that's where you can be expecting your, your increases, but that's all, it's all written out in the pattern, no problem. Oh, I'm getting very behind in my, in my comments. We gotta, we gotta back up here. Sorry, guys. Oh Linnea says good morning and thank you for the video.

I've been wanting to make a checkered bucket hat and no one shows tutorials. Will this video be saved for later? Yes, we can always go back and watch these things later, so you don't have to worry, um. Uh, oh, and Cindy's here. Good morning.

Good morning, Sea Wolf Pack from Central Pennsylvania, and Linnea says a wonderful thank you. I will be doing this tonight. Awesome. Oh, this weather was messing with my sinuses and arthritis in my hands. It's a good morning to sip coffee and hang out with all of you.

Oh, I hope you feel better soon. That's a bummer. Yes, this is, and see Wolf Pack is saying that it's, it looks like a good stash busting project. It is because I end up with lots of like half of a skein left and so it's kind of perfect. Um, She says LOL watching Brenda ignore her own instructions and tangle up the yarn, yep, see.

Uh, it's really hard, it's really hard to pay attention the whole time. So that's why I need to teach you how to untangle it, right? OK, um. All right. Oh, we've got Vanessa watching on Instagram.

Awesome from New York City. Cool. Or just twirl the project around since it's small. Oh yeah, so Cindy's saying if you get all tangled up, so this is all twisted right here, you can just take your project and untwist it like this, which is great, and this works fantastic for, you know, if your project is a little smaller, if it starts getting a little bit bigger than it gets a little awkward, um, but that is a very good point, yes. Cool.

OK. Um, so once you have finished up, you know, working all your rounds, then you're gonna work the edging, and I'm gonna show you how to do that because it's a little bit unconventional. So I wanna make sure that it um makes sense to you guys. So here we are. This is another color way here.

And I'm just finishing up the very last round. Of my hat before I switch to the edging. OK, so I'm just doing my last few extended single crochets here. Here's the last one of that color. I am going to switch to the purple, so I can do my joining slip stitch right here.

And then I am going to fasten that off and actually cut the other color as well. And then these can be woven in. To get rid of those. You can do that at any point. Um, I'm gonna go ahead and just start working on the, the edging.

So to do the edging we're actually going to be working from the wrong side of the hat. So this whole time we've been working around and around and around and our join rounds always looking at the same side of the hat, right? So as we're, you know, we're just spinning it around, we're always working from that side. Now we're going to be turning it so we can see what's going on on the inside. We're going to be working um on the inside of the hat first.

So I'm going to grab my edging color, so I'm just going to be using this orange here. And I'm gonna pull up a uh a loop from really any stitch. You can start wherever you want. I find that even though this, this, um, the joints do blend in pretty darn well, they're really hard to see here. I still like to join my yarn, um, for the contrasting color and keep all my joints in the same spot.

I think of that as the back of the hat, but honestly, it's so subtle. Like it really looks good, so you don't really need to worry too much about it. Um, but we're going to be working underneath just the front loop, and front meaning the loop that's closer to you. Now, I know that might be confusing because normally we were working with this side facing, we're thinking about this as being the outside the front of our hat. But when we look at the fabric and I say, you know, in the pattern, like pull up a loop from the front loop, that means the loop that's closest to you.

So instead of inserting your hook underneath both strands, how we normally do in crochet, we're just going to insert it underneath just the front right there. We're going to grab a strand of yarn and pull up a loop. We'll chain one just to kind of anchor our yarn there, and then we're going to do a single crochet into each front loop around. So this is going to leave those back loops free. OK.

So we're just doing just a regular sing, oh, a single crochet, in case you don't already know what a single crochet is, you'll just insert your hook under your loop, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over, and pull through two. That's one of the most basic. Uh, one of the most basic crochet stitches there are. And we're just gonna keep working underneath that front loop only. So this is all in your instructions.

Um, let me get to. Edging round oh brim edging, so it'll be underneath the brim edging section of your pattern, um FLP that stands for the front loop um in case you're wondering what the abbreviations are, there are actually there's a key in here, I think it's at the beginning, but it might be at the end. Yeah, there it is. This little gold box that'll tell you what all your abbreviations mean. Um, so, we're just working that single crochet through the front loop, and we're gonna go all the way around the whole hat until we get to the end.

And Here we are. So I'm almost done working through the front loops in this hat. I have 2 more stitches here, making those single crochets. And so that was our very last stitch. Then we're going to make a slip stitch into that very first single crochet we made.

So we'll just go in there, grab that yarn, pull through, and pull through. Then we are going to chain one. To join or to start our next round here, and we're going to work into that very same stitch as our join. So this time we're going to work underneath the back loop. So remember before we worked under the front loop that was here.

Now we're going to work under the back loop only, which is right here. So we're just going to be doing single crochets around. Working in that back loop. So that's leaving the loop, that's towards us free. And the, the reason that I did this was because this gives it a nice area.

It's kind of like um. Like a fold line basically it creates an area for this little bit of an edging to fold because it's only connected to one loop. So you're just gonna do one single crochet into the back loop all the way around your head, all the way to this point right here, OK? And so, later, it's going to be able to fold like this. All right, so let me show you what that looks like.

We are Almost To the end here. Still working through the back loop. You can sing crochets. And now we have worked our very last stitch. We're going to do a slip stitch in the first single crochet right here.

And then we're going to chain one, we're going to turn our work now, so that way we're looking at the right side of our hat, the outside of our hat. OK, so we chained one, and now we're going to insert our hook underneath our stitch from down here that we left open when we did our very first round, and we're going to insert through underneath both loops of the stitches we just made. We're going to yarn over, pull through everything, including the loop on our hook, and that's going to make a slip stitch. So let's do that into the next stitch. So right here, there's an open loop that was left over from the when we made round one of the edging.

And we're going to go underneath both strands of that last um. The last, uh, the last edge that we made there. We're going to pull the yarn through that and through the loop on our hook. So as we are making these slip stitches, what we're really doing is we're folding the edge of our brim, this little Sort of narrow contrasting stripe is getting folded and it's doubled so it's thicker and that slip stitch makes a nice pretty solid looking edge right there and it covers up that little bit of um the other colors that you can kind of see peeking through there but when you do that slip stitch, it covers it up and so the whole edge of it just kind of all the way around it looks um. Almost rounded or squared off even, I guess, because we did that working through the back loop on the previous row.

Um, so that kind of gave it a nice place to fold. I'll do a few more and then I'll show you a little bit more of what this looks like. So that the, you know, what's happening here is that we're able to have a very dense area of stitches. We're making a nice little kind of self hem right here and that is going to be able to make the edge of our hats be stiffer and stand out in the sun, you know, be a nice brim and not be floppy hanging down in our eyes because that's annoying. OK.

So there's that extra ridge. It's kind of thick right here, right along that edge, and it's nice and stiff. You can see like right here, this is pretty floppy because it hasn't been stitched, but this is much stiffer. You know, I can kind of even just show you what that looks pretty good. So it's making a difference there.

So even if you, you know, didn't want that contrasting color there, I really think that it's worth doing these three rounds here because it's going to make the edge of your hat look just that much more, you know, just stiff and have that structure that looks so good. All right, it looks like I'm all caught up on my questions. I don't think I missed any. Um, oh, Peyton is saying I was just making this the other day. Well, bucket hats are the perfect thing for the summertime or, you know, spring.

It's not summer yet. I'm just kind of leaping forward to, uh, this super sunshiny weather here that we're having. All right, thank you guys so much for being here. Thank you for saying hi thank you for your questions and reminding me I needed to talk about the yarn weight and the what it's made out of, you know, I appreciate you guys piping up when I'm, you know, uh, you know, if I'm saying something that's confusing, I really do appreciate that that helps everybody. Um, but yeah, thank you guys so much for joining me.

And, uh, at about 11:30 I'm gonna be doing another live tutorial, and this time we're gonna be talking about safety eyes. So if you have been interested in working on Amaromi, if you have any questions about safety eyes, um, I'm gonna be showing you how they work. But also I've done a lot of Amaroy making and found some really interesting safety eyes, so there's gonna be kind of a little bit of show and tell, and I'm gonna be talking about um different tools to use to insert the safety eyes as well to make it a little easier on your hands. So if you guys are interested in that, come on back at 11 11:30 and um, yeah, and say hi. All right, thanks everybody bye.