Upcycle Your Clothes by Adding a Crochet Lace Edging

Hey everybody, welcome to our live event. My name is Brenda IKB Anderson, and I'm a designer and also a crochet instructor and um I also really love upcycling things. It's just sort of a habit I've had or something, a passion I've had, I guess, ever since I was younger and I like to kind of remake things. I guess really. Ever since I saw Pretty in Pink where Molly Ringwald takes apart that beautiful 1950s dress and makes it into a maybe less beautiful 1980s dress, but at the time I thought it was really cool.

Ever since I saw that movie, I, I really liked taking things and reworking them, adding stuff to them, putting different things together. Um, and it's also just like really satisfying because generally, usually it doesn't cost a lot of money. A lot of times you could just use things you have on hand, and a lot of times you're just fixing up something you already had. So, um, all these things make this a very me project, and I hope that many of you feel the same way about this kind of thing. I hope that's why you're here, or maybe you're just here because you want to learn about making lace, which is something we'll be doing as well.

So in this live event, I'm gonna be focusing mostly on kind of walking you through how to figure out how to put lace on the edge of something like in onto the bottom of a top like this one here, here is a top that I had that I loved, but it was just like a little bit too short and it drove me crazy. So I really wanted to add that extra little bit of lace onto it to here I'll show you what the lace looks like. I wanted to add that little extra bit of lace onto it. It just looks a little bit, you know, pretties it up a little bit, but also it kind of weights the the um edge of the fabric. This is kind of like a lightweight linen um and makes it hang a little nicer and also it extended the length of it which was perfect, which is what I actually really needed and now I'm gonna wear this a lot, um.

So I wanted to show you guys how to do it because this type of thing can be kind of tricky when you're, especially if you're working with a lace pattern that has kind of a larger repeat like my lace pattern here. If you're doing something like a little pico edging or something like that, you can kind of make it up as you go and add it on as you go. But for something like this where you're trying to fit these pattern repeats around the edges of something, it just adds a whole another layer of frustration and and confusion. If you, um, you know, don't really know how, how to add it on there and how to plan for it, I, I guess I should say. So that's what we're going to be focusing on um in this live event.

So um yeah, so I'm gonna be walking you through how to create the lace, how to create a little small piece of it, and then we're going to be working with that and we're going to figure out, we're gonna together we're going to talk about um how to add that lace on here, how to plan out where all the repeats go, and just how to work it up, how to actually crochet into your fabric that's another thing we're going to do too. All right, so if you guys have any questions for me, um, any advice for other people, any suggestions for future live events, please put those in the chat. I will definitely, um, do my best to answer all the questions that happened during this live event, um, yeah, and I'm happy you guys are here. So this, this lace pattern, um, it looks kind of complicated but it's much less complicated than it looks. It's um it's kind of a version of a pineapple stitch in here and it's got some kind of scallop elements to it here and a little pico edging so we're gonna be doing up a small sample of that.

We're gonna be working from a chart and if you've never worked from a chart before, that's OK because I'm gonna be showing you all the stitches you need to know. Um, but I also put some links in the download. So if you want to, oh, and by the way, the download, this is a very helpful download for this live event because it has all the steps it walks you through how to do this. The second half of this is actually how to convert a stitch pattern that's worked back and forth and turned rows to a stitch pattern that's worked in the round, so. That's another thing that we're gonna be learning um in this live event as well.

So all that information is in here. um, many versions of this chart are in here showing you step by step how I converted my stitch pattern from working back and forth in turn rows to working in the round, um, and I'll be talking you through all of that, but, you know, if you want to actually work up this particular lace pattern. Um, you, you'll need to download, uh, this, this, uh, PDF so that you can follow along and check it out and read through the stitch stitch charts. And if, uh, like I was saying, um, if you are not quite sure about reading charts, it's not really your thing. Don't worry because there is a link in here to a couple of different areas um on the Creative Crochet Corner website and also um on Craftsy there's a class I think on both um websites that's available for teaching you how to work with charts, how to how to learn, learn how to read from charts.

There's also um a link to a free kind of a shorter video about it on the Creative Crochet Corner website as well, but we'll be talking through it here too, so maybe that'll just be enough to get you through, but I just wanted to give you a little bit of extra information. All right. So, um, here I have one of the charts in the download, and this is gonna be showing you. Where all of the stitches go. Like I said, the main point of this, this whole live event is really to teach you more about how to take some kind of lace pattern that you already have or what you know, you can certainly use the one I have here, but I, I, um, you, I want to make sure that this also relates to other lace patterns you might want to add to different edgings because not, you know, if you use this one once you might want to do a different lace edging at another point and um by watching this you'll know how to do that, how to convert.

Um, a pattern or a um a a crochet chart like this and know how to place it onto your fabric. OK, so this is a sample of what we're gonna be making. This is just a little too, like a two motif repeat of Um, of our stitch pattern and you can see that this looks very similar to this chart right here. Um, so charts, not only do they show you what's how the stitches relate to each other, what stitches go into other stitches, and you could see at a glance, and it's just so much easier to see where you're at in your project as you're working along. It's a lot harder to have to kind of read through all of the information I find.

Um, a lot easier to look at a chart. So that's why I'm teaching from a chart today. I highly recommend learning how to read from charts if you don't already know. Um, but this chart is basically like a picture representation in symbols of what we're working up right here. You can see they look very similar.

All of these symbols represent specific stitches, so you can see the key down here. We have chain stitches which are the little ovals, a plus stitch which is a single crochet this like kind of like a capital T with a one line through it. That's a double crochet, so you'll see that here. And then, uh, the same thing but a little bit taller with two lines through it, that's a treble crochet and so you'll see that in here and in here in the chart. All right, so we're gonna start out by chaining So, um, yeah.

While I do that, I, um, I just want to talk a little bit about areas where you might be using this particular technique. So you you might be doing this with pillow cases or um maybe you have, you know, like I like I have a top that you want a little bit longer, you can add it to the bottom of the top, you can add it to the bottom of a skirt, you can add it to cut off jeans, um, you know, the bottoms of a sleeve. There's lots of lots of places you can use this type of technique. And um when I first started learning how to work into fabric, I was, you know, with your crochet hook just piercing through the fabric. I, I had been looking at all these vintage magazines that I had.

That had these beautiful crochet lace edgings put onto things like pillowcases or um you know other home decor things, camisoles, things like that and I thought, oh I, I just couldn't quite wrap my mind around how you just start crocheting into the fabric and really it turns out it's much more simple than I had imagined. Um, but I do really love that sort of vintage appeal that, that, you know, crocheting into fabric brings. All right, so I'm gonna count my stitches here. 123456789, 1011, 1213, 1415, 1617, 1819, 20, 1, 22, 23, 24, 25, 26, 27, 28, 29, 30, 31, 32, 33, 34, 35, 36. 37, 38, 39, 40.

And 40, what? OK, I've got my 41 chains here. Um, and now to start out, we're gonna be, we're looking at this, this, uh, bottom row here. So these are representing the 41 chains, and they wrap all the way up to, including these two. These two chains are actually going to count as a stitch.

They're going to count as a double crochet right here on the edge. We will be working into them on the next row. So we're going to skip the first three chains. So we'll count 123 to the left, and then we're going to work into the 4th chain from the hook, and we're going to place a double crochet into that. And I really like to work into the bottom of my chain.

That's just my preference, but you can work into any part of the chain that you like, doesn't matter. So first I should explain, first we're making the sample because in order to know um how many repeats can fit around whatever opening you have, like if it's a pillowcase opening or the bottom of your your shirt or whatever it is you're working on, you really need to make a swatch. And now if you guys have watched my live events before, you know I'm always trying to wiggle my way out of making swatches, but there's really no wiggling out of this one. You just have to do it in order to know, um. So that's why we're making this just this little piece here.

You really do need that, um, in order to figure out how to disperse or how to, um. Like how many repeats you can have around your piece. All right, so. Back to the project here, we're going to in the 4th chain from the hook, I'm working into the bottom of my chain and we're going to make a double crochet. So we yarn over and then we insert into that stitch.

We're going to yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through 2, and yarn over and pull through 2. OK, so here we have those two chains that counts as the first stitch, and then we have our first double actual double crochet. That's second stitch, and we're right here in the chart. We're starting out right here and we're going to work our way across row number 1. OK, so we're going to do a chain and skip a stitch and then a double crochet, and then a chain and skip a stitch and a double crochet.

All right. So let's do that. So we'll chain, skip a stitch and then double crochet. Chain, skip a stitch, double crochet. And we're right here in the chart, then we're gonna chain 3, skip 3, and do a double crochet into each of the next 2 stitches.

So, 123. Then we're gonna skip 123 chains and work into the next chain, making a double crochet there. So there's our double crochet. And our next stitch is also a double crochet. Oh, and I should mention, I am using a C hook 2.75 millimeters, and this is a size 3 crochet thread, but you can do this with anything, that anything that's thin enough where you can use your hook to pierce through your fabric, and we'll get to that part later.

Um, but if you're using, if you're going to be working into a fabric that's rather dense, you're going to need to kind of scale down on your thread, maybe use a size 10 thread, use something very thin so that your hook can be smaller so that you can more easily pierce it through your fabric. And we'll we'll get to that a little bit more later, but I just wanted to let you know what I'm using here so you can, um, yeah, so you can see. So we're going to chain 312, and 3. Here we are right in right here in the chart. We're skipping 3.

And then we're gonna do double crochet, chain one, skip one, double crochet, chain one, skip one, double crochet, and we're gonna repeat that until we've done a total of 6 double crochets, OK? So we're skipping the 1st 3 chains, 123, and then in the next one, we're gonna do a double crochet. Chain one, skip a stitch. Double crochet. Chain one, skip a stitch, double crochet.

Chain one, skip a stitch. Double crochet. Chain one, skip a stitch. Double crochet. So we've got a total of 5, chain 1, skip 1.

And a double crochet. So now, we should have a total of 6 of those double crochets in a row. This is what we have so far. OK, our piece looks like this. And then we are.

Right here in the chart, and we're gonna chain 123, skip 3. 123, and then we're gonna do 2 double crochets. So 1 into each of the next two chains. So there's one. And 2, And then we're gonna chain 3123.

We're gonna skip 3123, and then we're gonna place a double crochet here. Chain one, skip one, double crochet. Chain 1, skip one, and then we're gonna land with 2 double crochets left, one into each of the last two chains we have. All right, so that completes our row number one. And then we're going to chain one.

Turn our work just like we're turning a page in the book to face the opposite side, and now we're going to place a single crochet into the top of that very first stitch. OK, so there's our chain one. We're not going to work into that, but we're going to place a chain one, sorry, a single crochet right here. So sorry, to do a single crochet, we just insert yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through 2. Excuse me.

OK. All right, so we're right here in the chart. Sorry. OK, we're right here in the chart. And we're gonna put, we just did a single crochet.

Excuse me. Hm. Oh OK. Sorry about that. We just placed a single crochet here and then we have this little arc that we're making out of 3 chains and then there's a single crochet and the single crochet will go into that chain space, OK?

So we just did our single crochet here and uh this is um something I want to point out to you when you're working from a chart and you're working in turned rows, you have to always remember which side of the chart to read as you as you go across. So we just went in this direction. Now we're going back in this direction, even though we're actually crocheting in this direction if that makes sense. Because you, you have to just, you turn your work and, and after you did your last stitch, you end up over here and then you work your way back over here. OK, so we did a single crochet.

Now we're going to chain 312, and 3, and we're going to place a single crochet into that chain 1 space, which is right there, OK? So we're gonna insert our hook into that space and then make a single crochet. All right? And then we're gonna chain 3123. Oops, I think I missed.

12 G Let me see, why am I missing? 1231. 2120, OK, I see what I did. I misplaced my single crochet. OK.

Let's back up. So we did, actually, I'll back up to the beginning of the row just to make it a little bit easier. So we chained one, we turned, we put a single crochet in the very first stitch. Then we chained 3123, and I, instead, I, I put my single crochet there, but I should have put it right here. This is actually a chain one space right here.

What I had forgotten was that this was a stitch for some reason. I was thinking of that as a turning chain so there's a double crochet, there's a double crochet, there's the next space. There's a chain one space there. So that's where our next single crochet is going to go. OK, so that's what we have now we're gonna chain 312, and 3, and then we're gonna place a single crochet right there.

Into that next chain one space. Now, we're gonna chain 3 more. 123. Here we are in the chart. We just changed 3, and now we're gonna place 2 double crochets, 1 into each of those double crochets from below.

So we are gonna make, uh, we already did our chain 3, and now we're going to do 2 double crochets, 1. Into this double crochet, and one into the next double crochet. OK, so this is what our piece looks like so far. Then we're gonna chain 3123. And then we're gonna work a single crochet into each of these chain spaces, and between those single crochets, we're gonna do chain threes.

OK, so, here's our first chain one space. So we're gonna do a single crochet there. And then we'll chain 312, and 3. And a single crochet here. 12 and 3, a single crochet here.

12, and 3, single crochet. We're just doing this all the way across those little um chain one spaces. And here's our last single crochet. Right there. So then we'll chain 3, and then we'll do a double crochet into each of those two double crochets.

So 123 chains, double crochet here. And a double crochet here. And then we're gonna chain 3123. And we're gonna place a single crochet into that chain one space, just right there. And we'll chain 3123.

This is where we are in the chart right here. And then a single crochet into the next chain space. And then 123. And then we're gonna end with a single crochet in the top of that, uh, turning chain right there. So that was counting as a stitch.

So, that's right here. This is our single crochet. This is what we have so far. Like that. And then we're gonna chain, here we are on row number 3, so we're gonna chain 4.

So 123, and 4. We're gonna turn our work. And we're gonna place a single crochet into the first chain 3 space from the previous row. So that's right here. So single crochet and then chain 3123.

And then a single crochet in the next chain 3 space. And then we're gonna chain 3123, and now we're gonna do 2 double crochets into each of these 2 double crochets. So here's the first double crochet, And then the second one. OK, so those two stitches are going into that one double crochet, and then we're gonna chain 3123. Then we're gonna do 2 more double crochets into the next stitch.

So, 1. And 2. Then we're in a chain 312, and 3. We'll single crochet here. In this chain 3 space.

123, single crochet here. 123, single crochet here. We're just kind of every time we get, go back and forth in this little section here, we're just doing single crochets into the chain spaces, and we're making sure we do 3 chains in between. So 123. And there's one more.

Little Little arch there for a single crochet. Now we're gonna chain 312, and 3. And we've gotten to the section where there's 2 double crochets in a row, and we're gonna do 2 double crochets into this first double crochet. So 1. And 2, into that first one, then we chain 312, and 3, and we do 2 double crochets into the next stitch.

One To Um, so there's our 2 double 2 double crochets, chain 32 double crochets. Then we do chain 3123. And then we look over here and we see these two little arches right there. So we're gonna do a single crochet into the first one, chain 3. And then a single crochet into the next one.

And then we're just gonna chain one. And then we're going to do a double crochet in the top of the single crochet down here. So there's a single crochet. And there is our double crochet right on the end. Then we're gonna chain one, we're working on row number 4.

So we chain one and turn, and then we are going to do a single crochet in the top of that double crochet. So right there, there's the top of the double crochet. We'll do a single crochet there, and then we'll chain 3123. And now we're looking for a little arch to place our single crochet in, which is right here. There's our single crochet, and then we chain 3123, and now we're gonna do a double crochet into each of these double crochets, just 1 in each.

So there's one Here's the 2nd 1. And we're right here on our chart. We're just gonna be working across this little arch here, so we're gonna change 7, and then do 2 more double crochets and chain 3. So here's our chain 71234567. And a double crochet into each of the next two double crochets.

And 2 And we've got a chain 3123. So we're right here on the chart, and you can see we're doing a single crochet into each of those arches with 3 chains between them. OK, so if we just take a look here, we've got 123 little arches. So we're gonna do a single crochet, hop over, to chain 3, and single crochet, chain 3, hop over the next, and single crochet. So here's our single crochet, 123.

Single crochet? 123 and single crochet. And then we do chain 3123. And then double crochet into each of the next two double crochets, so 1. And 2 And we're gonna do 7 chains.

And then a double crochet into each of these next two double crochets. So there's 1. To And chain 3123. And here we are in the chart. We're gonna do a single crochet into this chain space, chain 3, and then a single crochet into this chain space which really counts as a double crochet chain chain 1, or, you know, it's basically the equivalent of this side, double crochet chain one.

So. We already did our 3 chains, and we're gonna do a single crochet here into this chain space and chain 3123, and we'll finish with a single crochet into this chain space here. Right there. And now we're gonna be working row number 5, so we'll start with a chain of 4. So, 123, and 4, that counts as a double crochet chain 1.

So, we chain 4, and then we're gonna place a single crochet into this chain 3 space. Right there. Chain 3123. Double crochet into each of the next 2 double crochets. 1.

And 2, We're right here in the chart, so we're gonna change you. 1 and 2. And now you can see we're gonna repeat a treble crochet chain one, a bunch of times until we have a total of 123456 trebles across that arch there. OK, so Um, we just did our two double crochets and our chain 2, and we're gonna start with the treble. So we yarn over twice, insert, yarn over pull loop, yarn over pulled through 2, you'ren't overp pulled through 2, yarn't overp pulled through 2.

That's a treble. And then we're gonna chain 1 and then we're gonna do 5 more of those. Yarn over twice. There's a second trouble. Jane 1.

Third treble chain 1. 4th trouble chain 1. 5th trouble. Jane one And here's the 6th. OK.

And now we're gonna change 21 and 2. We're right here in the chart, and we're going to do a double crochet into each of the next 2 double crochets. So there's a double crochet here. And a double crochet here. And then we chain 3123.

We're gonna single crochet into this chain 3 space. 123, a single crochet into the next chain 3 space. We're right here. We're gonna do. 2 double crochets here, 1 into each of the next 2 double crochets, so 1 here.

And one here. And then chain 21 and 2. And then we're going to start that same series with all those treble crochets. So we're gonna have a total of 6 treble crochets and with a chain in between each of them. So we yarn over twice.

And make our first trouble chain one. Second trouble, chain 1. Third trouble. Chain one 4th trouble. Chain one 5th trouble Chain one And 6th trouble.

And chain 2. A double crochet into each of the next two double crochets, so 1. And 2 And then we'll chain 3123, and then we'll, we're gonna do a single crochet into this chain 3 space. Chain one And a double crochet in into the, into the top of that single crochet right there. So there's our double crochet.

Oh, and Bell's appreciating the chart along with the class. Yeah, I'm glad I'm not the only chart person. I just feel like working from charts makes things so much simpler. And just remember, I know this is I'm throwing a lot of stitches at you guys, um, but just know you can always come back and watch this like slowly a little bit at a time and pause me or have me go back and show you that part again. Um, I'm just trying to get through this kind of quickly, so we have a little sample and you guys know how to make the sample, and then we're going to move on to like how to place that onto our piece.

So we just have one more row left to do. So we're gonna start with row number 6, we're gonna change 2, and we're gonna turn our work. And we're gonna, so there's our chain 2 right there. That's gonna basically count as a double crochet. And we're going to do 2 double crochets, one into each of the next 2 double crochets.

So there's the next double crochet right here. One there And one there. And then we have 4 chains and then a single crochet into the first of those chains. So this is going to make a little pico. We're going to chain 4, so 123, and 4.

Then we're going to work into the 4th chain from the hook, and I'm going to work into the bottom of the chain. So here's the top of the chain with all those little V's. If we look at the backside of that, you'll see all these little dashes. So we're gonna count back 123, and 4. So this is where we're going to place our single crochet right there.

And that's just gonna make this cute little pio, that's gonna go in between our treble stitches. So, now we're gonna place a treble into each of these trebles, and in between where we make these new trebles, we're making a pico, just like we did. So we're gonna yarn over twice. And then we're gonna work into this treble. And by the way, sometimes I think people get confused about where the top of the stitches compared to the post, and it's it's especially confusing when you're working back and forth and turn rows, I think.

Um. Or if you're someone who normally works things in the round and then you're working back and forth in turn rows, when you make a stitch, like when we make this treble stitch, let me just do it slowly as you can see. I'll yarn over twice. I'm going to insert just barely to the left of this of this post here. And that is the top of the stitch.

So if you're left-handed, if you're left handed, I would watch this, watch your screen through a mirror or see if you can mirror your screen on your computer depending on how you're watching it or depending on your computer. You might be able to flip your screen horizontally. Then it will look like I'm a left-handed crocheter and it'll make more sense to you because I'll be crocheting it just like you would. Um, so we're going to insert our hook there, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through 2, pull through 2, and see as we make this last pull through 2, this loop is going to become the top of our stitch, and this loop is slightly to the right of our post. So watch me when I do this.

See how that loop is just, it's it's on top of the post, but it's like ever so slightly to the right. If you were crocheting left handed, it would be ever so slightly to your left. That means if you were to work another row, it would be when you get to that stitch, it's slightly before the stitch if that makes sense. So that's why. OK, we're gonna make our little pico here quick.

1234, and we're gonna single crochet into the 4th chain from the hook. Here we go. There's our little ico. So and then we're gonna do another treble so we'll yarn over twice. That's why when you see your post here, the top of the stitch is ever so slightly after the post because we're working in turn rows.

If you were working around and around and around and every time you got to your stitch it you were seeing it on the same side of the work as it was when you made the stitch, then the top of your stitch would be ever so slightly to the right if that. Hopefully that makes sense. I just know people get confused about where to put their hook for things like this. OK, so, so it's slightly offsets just ever so slightly to the left. It's still above it, but it's just, you know, instead of putting it here, you're gonna want to put it here because that's the actual top of the stitch.

So there's our trouble. And here's our Pico. Single crochet. Treble on the top of the treble. Here's our pico.

And there's our next treble. 1234 chains, single crochet into the 4th chain from the hook. And here's our next trouble. 123 and 4. And there's our single crochet.

And here's our last uh trouble. So right now in the chart, we are right here. We've just done all these icos and tres. We have one more pico before we do the two double crochets. So I'm just going to call attention to this.

This little section in here, pay attention because these are trebles, but these kind of bordering it on the outside, those are all double crochets. They look pretty similar in the chart, but the trebles have that extra little hash mark in them. OK, so we're going to do one more pico. 1234, and we go in here. Make a single crochet in the 4th chain from the hook, and now we can do those two double crochets, 1.

And 2 into the double crochets from the previous row. And now we're going to place a double crochet into the top of this little section here, so. Here we go. Um, right there in that chain 3 space in the middle. OK.

So that's, we're gonna just make a double crochet right there. Like that. And then we can make double crochets here and here. There's one And there's 2. All right, and so we're working across here.

So we're gonna chain 4. 10 sorry, we're working actually in this direction. I'm sorry, on this last row, I feel like I was pointing to this, but we are actually working this row in this direction. I hope that didn't confuse anybody here. um, so we have just worked through.

Let's see, we got here and then we did two double crochets and now we're about to do this pico and those trebles. I think I had it flipped when I was discussing the icos and trebles and double crochets, um, but just know row 6 starts here and works across the only. Difference, it's really, you know, it doesn't really matter, um, except that when you are reading this chart, when you make the picos, it's telling you since you start on this side, you make the four chains first and then you make the single crochet. If you were reading it from this direction. You wouldn't know where to make that single crochet.

It's just sort of like into nothing, so you need to to be reading it in this direction to come across those four chains first, and then you put the single crochet into the chain and then you move to the next stitch if that helps. So that's one of those things where when you're looking at a chart, sometimes you have to think about. It for a minute and be like, oh wait, does it actually go this way and not this way? And you can always just look along the side to see where those numbers are. That's the numbers on the edges are going to tell you where it starts.

So the number 1 is here, so you start here and go across. Number 2 is here, then you start on that, and then you go across. OK. So, we're making that little PIO section. We're gonna make that single crochet in the 4th chain from the hook.

There's our peo, and we're gonna do that series where we're working a treble, a pico, a treble, a pico, a cross. So there's our treble, 1234. And here's the ico. And then a treble in top in the top of the treble. And make a pico.

And the trouble here. 123. 1234. All right, we've got one more treble here. 123, and then we're gonna do another Pico.

Because there's a ico before we get to the next 2 double crochets. So, there's our pico. So we're working our way across here. There's the ico that we just made. Now, we're gonna do 2 double crochets into the double crochets from below.

One And 2. And then we're gonna end with one double crochet into that chain loop, into this space right here. And there's, there it is. So this is what our piece looks like. And Let me get my iron heated up here.

Um, I would definitely recommend blocking this because it's. You know, when, when usually when you make lace it's going to be kind of a little misshapen it it and if you kind of pull it it makes the lace all that much more easy to see and it just looks better when you block it um so I would definitely recommend doing that because that's probably how you're going to want it to be on your pillowcase or your clothes or whatever you're adding this piece to. So I'm heating up my iron right now so I can show you, let's see. Hopefully, there we go, now it's actually heating. OK, oh thank you for the compliment, Carrie.

She likes the lace. OK, so here's our little swatch, um, and you could certainly use this on anything you want. You can just make a big ribbon of it and use it to, you know, just make it to whatever dimensions, whatever you need the lace for, and you can certainly sew it on, but I wanna. Show you how to actually um crochet into your fabric so that you can build this lace off of it. So that's what I had done here in this piece um and you can see right here there's all these little lines going into my fabric here those are single crochets that I just poked my hook right through the fabric and you can do that um.

The first time I did that I thought, isn't this just gonna fall apart? But it really doesn't. I mean there are probably certain fabrics, a more gauzy fabric, a woven, where if you make a hole in it, it may cause problems. There also could be certain types of knit fabrics. I don't think we don't really come across some too often now, but like a trio that might run.

Um, if you poke a hole in it, it might, you know, create those kind of runs, so you want to avoid those types of fabrics, but I've used this technique on lots of different kinds of fabrics and I've never had a problem with it, um, so it, it, you know, you definitely want to test it out on a little spot where you wouldn't really be able to see it, maybe something next to a side seams you could kind of get rid of that if it does create a run or some kind of a problem, um, or you know, test it out on a fabric that's similar if you have something that's similar. Um, first, before you go ahead and just start poking holes in your fabric, but I've I've never had a problem with it like causing issues by poking holes with my crochet hook. You just have to make sure you're using the smallest hook that you can in order to, you know, still be big enough to accommodate the, the crochet thread or whatever you're using, um, but it should be as small as you can make it and still, still be able to crochet with that thread if that makes sense. Um, another thing, an alternative, like if you're gonna be working this into a thicker fabric like denim or something like that, you may want to just do a, a blanket stitch, so that would be like an embroidery stitch with just a sharper needle to get the same sort of effect that we have here and get that first layer on, and then you can crochet into the top of the blanket stitch. That's another, that's another thought.

The other thing too, and people have asked me before in other live events about this is um if you can use a skip wheel. So like those rotary cutters, you know, that you use to cut out fabric, a lot of quilters use them. Um, garment makers use them. It's just like a little handheld rotary cutter looks like a pizza cutter with like a blade that spins around. You can buy a special wheel to put on there that is basically makes perforated like little holes in your fabric, and you could use one of those.

The only drawback to using one of those though is that they're going to be spaced. You can't um alter how far apart the holes are. I mean you can buy different skip wheels that where the holes are, you know, spaced differently. But you can't fine tune it for your lace stitch pattern. Um, so you would have to kind of make a little use your skip wheel and kind of make some perforated holes along the, uh, the edge of your fabric and then crochet into it and then see what hook you need to use in order for the lace pattern to to be the right width, be the right gauge in order to connect to all those um.

Those stitches that you made, uh, that are spaced because of the skip wheel if that makes sense. The way that I'm doing it here, we're poking our own holes in our fabric with our crochet hook as um based on our swatch that we made. So this should be hot enough and I'm going to go ahead and just block this right now. So you can open up those holes. You can also wet block this if you want to.

Um, however you want to do it, but just, you know, I would definitely block it first before moving on, so you really know what size this is going to be. OK, so after you get your swatch. Oh, we've got another. Oh, we have a hello from Malta. Wow, hello, welcome.

I love it when you guys tell me where you're from and people are from all over the world. It's so amazing to me. Bella has a question. Do we steam block before crocheting to garments? OK, so what I would recommend is when you make your swatch like this, you steam block it so that it is how you want to block your piece when you're done with it.

So it doesn't really matter like. Um, the gauge where you crochet it all up on your when you're working on your piece that is based on this. So because we already made this little swatch here, we steam blocked it, we know how it's going to turn out, like what size it's going to turn out as long as we use the same hook and the same thread. Um, even though we're gonna be switching directions and working in the round, I don't find that especially for lace stitch patterns. I don't find that I have a big difference in my gauge, um, when I'm working in the round versus working flat, whereas there are other things like single crochet or half double crochet, just worked and turned rows, my gauge will be significantly different on something like that versus working that in the round.

But for lace, it doesn't seem to matter, so I would not worry about that in case you're worrying about that, um. But the reason that we are checking this, we were making this swatch and we're checking the gauge is so that when we crochet into our fabric we're going to know exactly where to space our repeats and then we'll crochet that up and we'll block it so that it looks the same as our sample does if that makes sense. We'll block it in the same method, um, so it should be the same size. I hope that answered your question. If it did not, come pop back in and ask me.

OK, so, uh, so let's just say we had this little shirt, this little cropped shirt here, and we wanted to add this lace stitch pattern to the bottom. So I already removed the hem line here. I just kind of cut that off because I know that it's going to be a lot easier for me to crochet just into one layer here, but you could crochet through both as long as you have a pointy enough hook. Um, you know, crochet hooks come with different shaped heads on them. And this one, or in the nose, whatever you wanna call it, the tip of the hook, um, this one I linked what I used here just in case you guys are curious.

These are my favorite hooks of all time. They're clover and more hooks. I use them all the time. They're so nice for me to um like ergonomic and they just the way. That the hook is shaped.

I don't know. I just love working with these hooks, so I always reach for these ones first. There are probably other hooks out there that have a pointier tip though. So if you're having trouble and you're struggling, you may just want to look and see if you can find a hook that has a differently shaped tip on it that's just a little bit um pointier basically so you can pierce through your fabric easier. OK, so let's just say we were going to put some lace on the bottom of this.

So I cut off the hem because I just knew that that would be an extra layer I didn't want to stitch through. You don't have to do that, but that's that's what I did. On this top actually, I don't know if you guys can see this, but there's a very narrow hem here on the bottom. So I just put my hook just underneath the hem. I left the hem there.

Maybe you can see better on the back where that hem is. Um, but I pierced through the fabric just beyond where that hem is, so I'm only going through one layer and that seemed to help a lot. And it looks nice too. OK, so the way you figure out how, how many repeats and how to distribute it and how to work into how far apart your stitches should be. If you use this and you measure from here to here, and you can use that measurement, let's see.

So that, for this, it's about 3 inches right there, and then you can measure the circumference of whatever it is you're putting it on. So this would be. Oh, this is actually going to be easy math. This is about 30 inches around. It's like I planned this, but I seriously didn't, you guys, so I could do some easy math here.

OK, so this, this is 30 inches all the way around and this is 3 inches per repeat. So what that means is I can have 10 of these, 10 repeats around, so 10 times 3. Is 30 inches. So, or or if you just take the 30 inches and divide that by whatever your repeat measures. So if you take 30, which is the circumference, divide that by 3 because this is the distance where the pattern starts to repeat.

So I'm pointing right here because this is a really obvious place to check. You can see that this right here is gonna repeat right there. Um, but you know, you could pick right here to right here as well. You know, it doesn't really matter. Um, but this just seems like an obvious spot to look for your repeat.

So we're starting right before this double crochet here and ending. Right there. OK. So, that is a repeat, that measures 3 inches across. So if you take your circumference and divide it by the width of your repeat, then you will find out how many repeats you can have, like, how many times you're gonna repeat.

This lace pattern around. So for me it's 1010 repeats. So that means on the front of my shirt I'll have 5 repeats and on the back of my shirt I'll have 5 repeats, and the total is 10 all the way around, OK? Because the circumference was 30 all the way around. So then you can take your, you can take some safety pins.

And you can divide whatever you're going to be stitching into in those same number of repeats that you're going to be working up. So for me, um, I know that because I'm doing 1010 is divisible by 2, so I'm going to go ahead and just put a safety pin on each edge of the fold, so there's one on that side. I'm gonna put one right here on this side seam. And so we've divided those 10 repeats in half, so we know there's gonna be 5 in the front and 5 in the back. So what you could do is you can just measure, so every 3 inches.

That's where a repeat happens, right? So you can put a pin in at that point. And you know, just know that you're probably going to measure it and you're gonna have to move your pins just a little bit because there's, you know, human error is happening here. That things are stretchy. It's a little hard to be super exact.

But just get your pins in and then you can just kind of double check and and uh redistribute them just a little bit if you need to. Alright, so here's. I'm measuring every 3 inches because that's the width of my repeat. And you're gonna want to think about like. If you wanted.

The center of your repeat to be in the middle, or if you don't care if it could be like, you know, off to the side and this is what you think of as the center of your repeat. You know, you can think about things like that as you're placing your pins you may need to shift them a little bit. Just depends on your lace stitch pattern where you want the. Um, the scallops to land, but here we have 1234, and 5 sections all divided out, so with our pins and because mine was divisible by 2, I can just, and I know there's gonna be 5 on the back. I can just place pins right on top of where those pins are to pin the back.

So, um, I'm just leaving everything in place, but I can kind of match up. Like this pin is coming out of the fabric just right above where that pin is. That just makes it a little easier. You don't have to measure every single one. So now if you had come up with like 11 stitch pattern repeats around this whole thing, then you'd just have to measure, you know, 33 3333 all the way around until you get to your 11, and that's fine.

That's not, it's not like it's hard to do that, but this is a little bit of a shortcut because we know we're gonna have the same amount of repeats in the front as we would in the back. OK, so now we have This all marked out, and so now we know we're gonna have a repeat between this pin and this pin, right? And this pin and this pin. And then we can take a look at our stitch pattern and figure out how many times we want to actually stitch into our fabric. So, just in case, um, this, this might be a little bit.

This might be a lot to take in, but just know all of this information is in the download. I walk you through the whole process and I explain all of this stuff. So if you're having trouble with that, of course you can watch this video over until, you know, until it makes sense, but I'm just letting you know that it is there in your download so that way, you know, if you get a little confused later and you want to read through what I wrote, um. then that will, that will probably help you when there's all the visuals as well with the charts and that sort of thing. So, when you look at this stitch pattern, you can see.

That um You know, you could, you could make one, you could work into your fabric every single stitch for the whole repeat. Like let's just say here's the start of our repeat, so we're gonna go from here to there. I'm gonna cover this up. So this would be 123456789, 1011, 1213, 1415, 1617, 1819. We have 19 stitches.

in our, our pattern repeat so that means we'll be placing 19 stitches between each of these pins, but that seems like a lot of stitches and maybe we don't want to put that many stitches in there. We're gonna be poking through our fabric an awful lot if we have if we have to go through 19 times between this pin and the next pin. So then what I do is I think, OK, maybe I could do every other stitch I work in to the fabric, and then I have a chain between those single crochets. So, that's what I did here. So what that means is when you have a repeat.

You work into, you make a single crochet, and then you chain one, and then there's another single crochet and a chain one. So that way you're only working into your fabric every other stitch. You know, like, only on your single crochet stitches and then the chain stitches between you're not working into your fabric. So you could do that every 3 stitches, every 4 stitches. It just depends on your stitch pattern, what scale it is, what your fabric is like.

For me, I just work, I just wanted to work into my fabric, every other stitch, and then it all seemed OK. And you might be thinking 19 though, Brenda, you said 19, and how can you work into it every other stitch when it's an odd number? Then, if that happens, so in this case, um, I would be working Into my into my fabric every other stitch, right? But then there's one stitch that's left over that I need to account for because I have 19 stitches here and if I did like single crochet chain 1 single crochet chain one, if I did that, so we have a, you know, if it crocheted into my fabric 9 times and there is one chain between each of those 9 times, that means we have 18 stitches accounted for, but we need 19 for the stitch pattern. So then what you can do is you can just work work into it like that.

You have 18 total stitches between your pins and then just know on the first round of your chart, when you start working in the round. You can place 2 stitches into one stitch, so that gives you that extra stitch, the 19th stitch. So I hope that makes sense. This is all written out in the download. Please ask me questions if that is not making sense, but I want to show you how to start working into your fabric, and then we'll talk a little bit more about that, adding that extra stitch in.

OK. So, I'm just gonna grab this. So, in order to work into your fabric, I usually just start with a slipknot on my hook. And I'm gonna start somewhere on the back of my piece, just maybe off to the side here, and I know I'm going to be placing 9 stitches or single crochet stitches and 9 chain stitches between, you know, one chain between each of those single crochets in between each group of pins. So what that looks like is this.

So I'll just insert my hook. Um, a little ways away from the edge, and this will depend on what your fabric looks like. Let's see. Hopefully this will be out of the way enough that you guys can see what I'm doing. Um So, I'm just going to push my hook into my fabric somewhere near that pin.

Oops, that's a little too close to the edge there. There we go. And draw a loop. Just like we're making a single crochet, but it's more like a spike single crochet because you want to elongate that loop so you're not crunching down on the edge of your fabric, and then you're yarn over and pull through two. So that's a single crochet.

Then we're gonna chain one because remember we're only working into our our our fabric every other stitch and here's the next one. Single crochet, chain 1. So we've got 2, and we need to have 9, and you could place 9 little dots here to help you in pencil, um, or you could have a halfway point and know that that's where your 5th stitch should go, um, or you could just kind of eyeball it once you get a little bit more used to crocheting and um into your fabric. I've already done the stitch pattern a few times now, so I kind of know about how far apart they should be. Those are a little bit close, but that's OK.

I'm gonna chain one So I'm just kind of hanging onto my fabric and poking that hook through. OK, so we've got 5, chain 1. One To 3 So I'm just doing a single crochet, and then a chain one between and 4. OK, this is just a little bit squished in because I really want my next group to be starting right here. There's just a little bit larger gap there, but that's OK.

Um, so I'll just take the next stitch, which is right here. This is gonna be in the next group. Oops, I forgot to do a chain. I better do that. There's my chain between single crochets, and there's my next single crochet.

So that is the first stitch out of the next group and you can see it's just, you know, barely a quarter of an inch, um, too quick or too far to the right compared to how I wanted it to be, but it's pretty darn close. It's fine. Little things like that are just not a big deal and once you start. Um, getting your lace stitch pattern in there, you're not really gonna notice that. So I would not worry about that.

I, I don't really worry about that. And then you gotta kind of hop over any seam allowances, if there, if it's too bulky, or you can use something sharp to pierce through that, that works fine too. So there's our 2nd 1. Third one. And so I'm just doing those chains in between each stitch, so you can see what this is looking like on the front and the back.

Um, and so let me skip over to this top here. So we are almost all the way around on this one. I'm just gonna place my hook back in here. I just have one more stitch to do. I'm gonna pull that out, and here's my last stitch.

Oops, I forgot to chain one. I better chain one before I do that stitch. There's my chain, see if I can find that hole. There it is. And here is my last stitch.

And when you get around to the very last stitch, so this was the first single crochet of the round, we're gonna do a slip stitch here into that very first stitch. OK? So then this is the point where we start working our stitch pattern in the round. So now, I found that most lay stitch patterns, when you look in a stitch dictionary, um, most of them are written up, especially if they're charted. They are written up to be turned back and forth and turned rows.

Almost none of them seem to be like they're written in the round, but we do, we do want to make lace stitch patterns in the round all the time. So I wanted to make sure that you guys knew how you could convert your chart to working in the round. So OK, so here's our chart as, uh, you know, just the way that we made our little sample, it's just got two stitch repeats and it's worked back and forth and turned rows. You can tell because there's those chains on the sides, OK? So in order to create in order to take it from this to making a chart for in the round, if um I use a program called Stitch fiddle, but don't, don't worry if you don't want to use a new thing, that's totally fine.

Um, up until like maybe the last 5 years or so. I have just been doing this with scissors by, you know, just on a printed out piece of paper. You can certainly alter charts. It's not, it's not very hard, and I want to show you how to do it um in case you do not want to use a program or you're not super computer savvy, um, and you just want to kind of mess around with the stitch pattern and get it to look like it's made or get it to represent something that's worked in the round, OK. So, um, we're gonna go from this and we want before we kind of mess around with, uh, changing it, altering it to be worked in the round, we want, I like to add in at least one extra stitch repeat whenever I'm working on a chart and and changing things about the chart, I always throw in an extra stitch repeat or two so that I can kind of pull things out.

You'll see, so I can kind of alter things and not lose any of the information. So in order to do that. What I do is I will make a couple of copies of that chart. So that's what I've got here. And let's just say we wanted to throw in another stitch repeat, what we could do is we can just cut right through here.

And I'm gonna cut off. This section right here because this is getting pretty close to the end we know if you look at your chart you've got 123 stitches and then you know it's gonna repeat again like actually let's look let's look right here. So at the end of this little scallop section we've got 123, and then we have this little section here. And then at 123, and then it starts the scallop section all over again, right? We have those 123.

So I know that these stitches would still be used. If we were gonna continue, right? So I'm just gonna cut this off right here. We're gonna get rid of this section. And then to to add another stitch repeat and you can lay it on top of another copy of the same exact chart and match those up like this.

Now, see, what we just did is we just added another section into the chart. So now we have 3, a repeat of 3, because we just kind of got rid of that little side which, you know, because it's. Because we are doing some, you know, turning in rows and we have these extra stitches, this would not be part of a repeat if we were working it in the round. We just want to have the section that's the repeat, you know, the main stitch pattern. We won't, don't want to have any of that stuff on the ends, OK?

So I cut that off and then I added it into here and now you can see the whole chart just continues. You could just keep doing that. You could add a whole bunch on there if you wanted, um, you know, that's just a really easy way to alter a chart. Um, and so, but the problem is now we still have these things on the ends, right, that don't belong there. We don't want them there.

We just want the main section of of the repeat. The other thing is, is we also have to figure out how are we going to join, join our work and then continue on the next round. So in order to do that, what I look for are areas that you can follow all the way up with your eye. I will look for stitches that are. Basically, like, in line with each other.

And so, what I, what I mean is, for example, I can see right here, there's this little section right here, and there's a bunch of double crochets just into the top of a double crochet. That would be a very easy place to do a join and then do a chain too for a beginning chain that counts as a double crochet so we could change these out for a join and then a beginning chain, OK, so you would crochet your way around, you'd come this way, do a join, then you would chain to and that counts as your double crochet, and then you'd work your way around and you get here and you do a slip stitch in the to the top of that turning chain. And then you know replace this double crochet with another beginning chain here and work your way around so we would just have a series of joins and turning chains running right straight up here. It could be here, it could be here, um, but it's just really easy to do that in a place where there's. Um, like a double crochet into a double crochet or a stack of single crochets somewhere, um, you can certainly do that someplace like this.

You could have a join into your uh into your single crochet, but it gets a little harder to read and harder to figure out. You need to have a little more experience to do something like that in the middle of like a mesh stitch pattern or something, but if you have anything that is fairly. Uh, a distinct line that is a great place to join and then begin with your next round doing your, um, beginning chains. OK, so let me show you what that would look like if we wanted to substitute that. Um, these are all in your download, by the way, so you can see what they look like.

So here, here we have the same chart. The only thing really that's been changed here is that, um, so we, I highlighted this little section right here actually. That is where we're going to, actually, I needed to show you this. Um, I highlighted this section right here because that's where we're going to be changing out to our turning chains and our joints. And you can see them right here.

And I put numbers on here. Because that's where we're gonna start the round, so this is the beginning of round 1, beginning of round 2, beginning of round 345, and 6. And so we have a join and then we have that beginning chain work all the way around, join at the end of the round, another beginning chain that counts as a double crochet, and this is gonna be where we start and stop our rounds and it looks just seamless. We don't have to have, you know, some. Straight up ending to our, to our lace pattern right next to another ending, we can have it be part of that stitch pattern like that.

So the other thing that I noticed when I was working on this chart, of course, that we have to change. These icos, and I talked about this earlier, when you're when you're going back and forth in turn rows, the icos are gonna be facing the wrong way for if you were gonna do them in the round, right? So if you're, if you're working row number 6, you'd be working in this direction, so you get to the chains first, then you do that single crochet. And you work all the way across, right? Doing that 4 chains first, then a single crochet.

So things like that. You have to kind of look at your chart and see is there anything I can't actually construct in this way, you know, by working it from right to left. If we were working this last row right to left as it is written here in the chart, it wouldn't make any sense because you get to the two double crochets and what are you making the single crochet into? I don't know and then you're doing some chains, but then it wouldn't actually connect to that single crochet. It just doesn't make any sense, so you have to reverse that.

Um, to be correct. So in this version here I've reversed it so that way you get to the chains first and then there's your single crochet because we're actually coming from right to left. This entire section here is worked, everything is worked in the round, so you're always working from right to left around your work unless you're left handed, then this whole chart would be reversed and you'd be working from left to right, so you just flip flop the chart and it would make sense to you. And then the last part is we need to get rid of these little sections on the end. We don't want that because that has nothing to do with working in the round.

We're not doing turning chains. That's just, you know, we don't want that there. So then what you need to do is you just need to like distill it down to just the repeats and get rid of anything else. So I'm showing you in this version I just cut off these two sections and you can see. As you work your way across, you get to those three chains and then you can come back here to the beginning and see if it makes sense, yes, because those chains would go right into the single crochet and you'd work across here and the way that you know like you might think, well, how do I know that that that I'm not missing anything, but you can look, you can look for the same thing right in here.

So if you've got those 3 chains here. Do they connect to this in a way that doesn't disturb the pattern? You can look right here. Oh yeah, there's those 3 same 3 chains right before what you see here if that makes sense. So that's why we added the extra repeat in so that we still have something to look at and we can just remove parts of it and now we know, um, now we know that we're always gonna be working in one direction we know where the beginnings of the rounds are we have those beginning.

We have the slip stitch joins marked in here and we just know we start at um round number 1 we work across here and work those three chains and we continue to the end of round number 1 which is right here. OK, so that would be how we would read this chart if we're working this in the round because this is not just imagine this would just keep going around and around and around and around and eventually you end with this at the end of your round and do your joint. So I hope this is making sense. I hope that seeing these charts and, you know, if you check out your download, you can, you know, take a little more time to look at this and look at the differences between the charts and what I did to kind of change them. Then you will know, um, you know how to change your own charts, not just the ones that I have here and having that makes sense, but it'll give you ideas on how you can take a chart that you, you have worked with or you wanna work with you wanna convert it from something worked in turn rows to something worked in the round if that makes sense.

So I'm not going to continue working. I don't, I don't need to show you all of the steps in order to create the rest of this lace because it's basically the same as what we had already worked up in our sample. It's just that we're working from right to left. All the stitches are made in the same way. We're just not turning our work.

We're just continuing to, um, you know, do that joint at the end of the round chain to make the next stitch. So uh we'll just show you the very beginning here. So after we did that join. Let's see. After we did that join, here we are, that's the very first stitch of the round, and remember how I had said we only have 18 stitches here where we need 19 per repeat.

That means we can do 2 stitches. Let me pull out the chart where it shows us how to work in the round here. Oh, here it is. OK. So that means we can.

Begin Right here. So here would be round number 1. We would start right there and we're gonna do our two chains. 1 and 2, and that is going to count as that first stitch and then this next stitch we're also going to make in the same stitch as this first one because we're adding an extra stitch in here. We don't have enough stitches to work into, so we're going to make our double crochet in the same spot.

So there's our, this counts as a double crochet, and then that actual double crochet is the second one. Then we would chain 312, and 3. We skip 3 stitches, so we're gonna skip 12, and And then we're going to work our double crochet right here. So instead of working into a chain, as we did before, we're gonna be working into that very first round. That we had already set up.

So then we chain one, skip one, double crochet. Chain one, skip one, double crochet. Just like that, OK, to begin, to begin our round. Other than that, it's exactly the same. If you just look at this as being, you know, this is very similar to the chain that we had worked into before, it's just that we have these little spikes from the single crochets coming down, but you can ignore that.

Otherwise it's the same. And then when you come all the way around, you just join into the top of that chain too because that counts as your first stitch. So that join would be here and then you chain 2 to start the next round. And continue repeating all of those same steps that we had already worked when we made our little sample. All right, well thank you guys.

I appreciate you guys being here. I hope that I answered some questions about, you know, how, how to know how many repeats, how to mark that out on your piece, um, just really, it's just the figuring it out beforehand. You make the swatch, figure out how many repeats, mark out the number of repeats, then you look at your chart and figure out how many times you want to work into your fabric. Per each repeat, OK? So it could be every other stitch, it could be every 3rd stitch, and then the times when you're not actually working into your fabric, you're just making chains between those stitches.

And so you do, you know, if you have an odd number of stitches like we did, where we have 19. And we're trying to work into our fabric every other stitch. That means we only have 18 stitches, you know, it's an, it's an even number then just know on your very first round you can correct for that by kind of doubling up and adding an extra stitch into into one stitch and that will work just fine. Um, the other thing I wanted to mention to you is, as you're working across your piece and you're doing this very first round, Just make sure that it is not constricting your fabric or getting super wavy or something like that because that'll mean you need to switch to, uh, you know, either making smaller stitches by using a smaller hook or larger stitches by using a larger hook, you know, if it feels too tight, things like that, um, can, you know, will, will start to show in your piece, and then, you know, it's, it's going to be hard to correct that later. So just be kind of monitoring that and making sure it's laying nice and flat.

But for the most part, You know that doesn't usually happen too much unless it's pretty extreme. Normally it will just lay pretty flat for that first round, and you already know when you start working additional rounds you already know that the gauge is going to be right for that amount of space on your fabric because you did a gauge swatch and everything was based off of that, so. So it should all work out. All right, well thank you guys so much for joining me. I really appreciate you guys being here.

Uh, have a great rest of the day. Bye, everybody.